Now I managed to get the supposedly damaged phone working again. Evidently, the Verizon guy couldn't get the phone to work either, and so they ought to be paying me to work there.
Anyway, I now have an extra phone I cannot use.
It is getting hot, and my shade won't be ready in time to avoid some heat.
Lovely.
Just read some news on Insty. He asked if the GOP wants to hand the Congress back to the Dems. Yes, I think that may well be a possibility.
Staying away from the news improves my mood, but moving around more makes more sore. I'm a poet and don't even know it.
Update (s) 15:15:
Since I have some down time, some thinking is going in the screen porch/deck. I think I can put it together with minimal effort by way of the following procedure. I will make two 8x4x8 frames, which will be covered with metal on top, some fencing toward the sun, and screen all around. There will be a deck that rises above ground level.
Now, each of the frames can be fabricated from 2x4's. There will be four concrete pillars that set upon the ground. The deck/porch will set upon these pillars. There will be posts rising from these pillars, and two of these posts will be attached to the side of the trailer, and two more posts four feet away from the trailer.
The prefabbed frames with be fastened to the posts, and to each other. These won't be load bearing, so they should be strong enough. The deck will have cinder blocks under a separate 2x4, which will run down the center part of the frame that comprises the floor area. Finally, the deck is finished with 4x8 piece of plywood on top of the 2x4 prefabbed frame with 2x4 running down center supported by the cinder blocks.
The metal roof and rest is easy enough to visualize.
5.26.17, 3:36:
This project will be in two steps. Each frame will be built separately. I am doing it this way in order to determine the soundness of the plan. If it appears sound, I will finish off with the other half.
In order to complete one frame, I will need the following materials:
4 4x4x 8' posts
4 concrete pillars
15 2x4x8' studs
4 cinder blocks
I have got leftover nails and screws from my shack project two years ago.
For the deck, I need a 4x8' by fairly thick piece of plywood sheet
For the roof, I need some corrugated metal, size available?
more 2x4's most likely for the roof, sides, deck, and door (s)
sides will need sufficient metal screen, and some fencing planks
may need something to cut the screen to size, as I will need at least one door for access
5.27.17, 18:05:
adjustment to the materials list:
(2) 4x4x 8' posts cost: 20 bucks
(2) concrete pillars: 15 bucks
(5) 2x4x8' studs: 20 bucks
(16) 6 ft fencing planks: 25 bucks
straps and rope, 20 bucks
total 100 bucks
The procedure is to nail the fencing planks to the studs, which are in turn, nailed to the posts.
The posts are sitting in the concrete pillars, and are connected to the trailer, the rope and straps secure it to the trailer.
It may be desirable to further anchor the screen to the ground via rebar and some concrete. Not too sure that I need to do this.
19:53:
Another concept just popped up into my head: Don't do a screen at all. Use a swamp cooler instead. The idea here is to cool down the limited area in the bedroom as I did during the winter months. The window can be opened, but there is no screen around it. Don't want bugs, so I can make a screen around the window, and crack it open in order to admit air, if required. May need to use outside air, but on humid days, I can run the dehumidifier and the swamp cooler inside the trailer. Running both together will probably use less power than the air conditioner alone.
The materials for this are much simplified. Will need 2x4's, perhaps as few as three. Some screen, and I am in business. Tack the screen into position after securing it against the trailer. ( This may require a bit more planning )
Will need a swamp cooler though.
5.28.17, 8:58 :
I am leaning towards just getting the swamp cooler, and letting the dehumidifier and the fan on the stove to move air outside.
This may use almost as much electricity as the a/c with uncertain results. But I can use this as an opportunity to purify the water through the use of the two devices. It is worth trying. If it doesn't work, I can still build the other things.
10:40:
Done! Will be arriving on Friday.
5.29.17, 16:11 :
Considering this idea again. Just have this urge to build something. I shopped at the local hardware store today and found the stuff I could use. Now it is up to three of these, but only part of this needs to be bought at a time. Once emplaced, the posts can be taken down and used again. Same with the pillars.
northwest side materials list:
(2) 4x4x 8' posts cost: 20 bucks
(2) concrete pillars: 15 bucks
(5) 2x4x8' studs: 20 bucks
(16) 6 ft fencing planks: 25 bucks
straps and rope, 20 bucks
total 100 bucks
southwest side materials list:
reuse 4x4x 8' posts cost: 0 bucks
reuse concrete pillars: 0 bucks
(5) 2x4x8' studs: 20 bucks
(16) 6 ft fencing planks: 25 bucks
southwest side materials list:
reuse 4x4x 8' posts cost: 0 bucks
reuse concrete pillars: 0 bucks
(5) 2x4x8' studs: 20 bucks
(16) 6 ft fencing planks: 25 bucks
reuse straps, rope , 0 bucks
total 45 bucks
southeast materials list:
reuse 4x4x 8' posts cost: 0 bucks
reuse concrete pillars: 0 bucks
(2) 2x4x8' studs: 8 bucks
(5) 6 ft fencing planks: 10 bucks
southeast materials list:
reuse 4x4x 8' posts cost: 0 bucks
reuse concrete pillars: 0 bucks
(2) 2x4x8' studs: 8 bucks
(5) 6 ft fencing planks: 10 bucks
reuse straps and rope, 0 bucks
total 18 bucks
Let's say I'm off by 30 bucks or so. All three can be done for less than 200 bucks. Is it worth it? Maybe I should wait and see how the swamp cooler goes.
Update, 6.4.17, 6:41 :
Altered the materials list slightly
northwest side materials list:
(4) 1/2 x 2' rebar cost: 8 bucks
(6) 2x4x8' studs: 24 bucks
(16) 6 ft fencing boards: 25 bucks
straps and rope, 40 bucks
total 97 bucks
The other two sides can reuse the straps and ropes. One side can use screen instead of boards. Still around 200 bucks.
The idea is to use the straps and ropes to hold the screening against the trailer. It will sit on the group, and the rebar will help anchor it to the ground.
The thought just occurred to me that an extra 2x4 may be needed at about floor level so that the rope and strap can be even with the trailer. If it weren't there, the rope would pull up on the 2x4 on the ground.
10:50 :
May do away with straps and rope. Instead, pour a little concrete into some home made pads through which the rebar will pass. These will act as a stand for the shade. That means that the connections to the trailer will have to be stronger and capable of withstanding the wind.
This brings each side down to less than sixty bucks. But there is a risk that the thing may not hold up.
I'd better think this one over for awhile longer.
...after a few moments the following idea occurred. I can get an extra long board to put under the trailer and on top of the concrete pad. This will give a wide base to the screen, and should be tough enough for the wind.
I will need concrete and two boards per side. Two boards, four homemade pads.
What about awning repair ? Well, I don't want to try it myself, and I don't want to hire somebody.
Looking at material list now:
most recent update 6.7.17, 19:08 :
Planning is advanced, I may order any time now, changes will occur to the list below only.
northwest side materials list:
(1) 1/2 x 4' rebar cost: 4 bucks
(2) 1/2 x 2' rebar cost: 4 bucks
(1) 2x4x10' boards 7 bucks
(4) 50 lb bag concrete 7 bucks
(6) 2x4x8' studs: 24 bucks
(16) 6 ft fencing boards: 25 bucks
total 71 bucks
Actual including tax was a little over 80 bucks. Had to buy at lowes and home depot.
Done! Will pick up tomorrow.Actual including tax was a little over 80 bucks. Had to buy at lowes and home depot.
No comments:
Post a Comment