Monday, May 19, 2014

Nuts and Bolts, part deuce

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 By the way, the prelim on the financials looks okay, for the now, at least.  No obvious show stoppers.  Moving back to the nuts and bolts of the thing...

Instead of putting the conex into the ground, it may be better to forgo all that digging and put it on ground level.  Surround it with a plywood fence, that is as high as the conex itself.  This will shield it from the hot sun, and keep it cool in the summer.  In the winter?  In order to get some passive heating, it may be desirable to put a gate facing the sun, and open it so that the sun can get in and warm up the joint.

It may be pretty ugly to put a big plywood fence around the joint.  Maybe it can be painted in camouflage green so it won't be seen.  I'm a poet and don't even know it.  yuk, yuk  If it is placed a bit from the road, the brush and the camouflage will hide it pretty well.  I don't want to get complaints about ugliness, even though I don't give a rat's rear end what it looks like as long as its functional.

The conex should be raised slightly, so that means a bit higher fence.  I want it off the ground so as to discourage the creepy crawlies from not crawling on inside the conex when I'm trying to sleep.  Bugs crawling around ain't my idea of fun.

A door can be fitted in the front where there's already a door.  Open one door and you get to another.  The front entrance area will also have an a/c unit placed in it so as to cool it down.  It will be necessary to have some cooling as this is a hot state in the summer months.  The plywood fence should keep electric costs down.

I've mentioned plumbing before.  Instead of using city water, it will be collected off the roof and placed into cisterns so as to keep it from evaporating.  They do this at the Bush ranch in Crawford.  If dubya can do it, I ought to be able to.  The water can be stored in a barrel and raised about 20 to 30 feet off the ground.  Gravity will generate the water pressure to run the other stuff you need.  The pressure may not be high enough.  If not, then it will have to be higher.  The water will be pumped from the cisterns to the water barrel as needed.

Don't anticipate a septic tank set up.  As written earlier, I will have the wastes pyrolyzed.  The gases generated from pyrolysis are flammable, so it can run a generator that will recharge a lead acid battery.  The battery will generate the electric heater that will do the pyrolysis.  Sewage water will be recovered and recycled.  The water will be drained off after flushing, and then the waste will be dried slowly.  Once dried, it will then be pyrolyzed.  The end result will be sterile biochar ash.  In the meantime, the water will be treated and returned to a holding tank to refill the toilet when needed.

I don't know if such a setup can be purchased.  If not, I'll have to build it myself.

The property I'm considering has electric and telephone connections.  No need to worry about these.

I may need to build a driveway.

Update:

Looking over the guidelines may have introduced a show stopper.  You may have to dig a well and put in a septic tank.  State law.  Uh-oh.


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